face oils should be applied on top of moisturizer
Body Friday FYI

Face Oils Should be Applied After Moisturizer

Face oils should be applied after moisturizer, according to science. This little known fact took us by surprise. We always assumed layering face oils underneath face creams made sense according to the “rules.” Thinner products layer underneath thicker products, right? That’s true most of the time. But, it’s more useful to remember that water-based moisturizers go on before oil-based moisturizers. To truly understand why it sometimes makes sense to layer a thick moisturizer underneath a runny oil, there are some concepts we need to discuss first.

The concepts to know

Water helps keep your skin moist. When your skin is dry, it needs water to add moisture. Adding water can be done internally (drinking it) or externally (applying it). When it’s applied topically, water tends to evaporate instead of getting absorbed by your skin. This is where humectants, such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin are useful. They grab onto water and keep it from evaporating so quickly. Think of humectants as water magnets that attract water from the air and lower layers of your skin.

On the other hand, oils are hydrophobic or water repellent. They push water away. See the diagram below. Water sitting on top of an oil layer will evaporate before it gets absorbed. Although some of it will absorb into the skin, it’s not an efficient way to add moisture.

Diagram of Concepts In Action

Moisturizers are usually a combination of water, oils and humectants. Applying the oil on top creates a barrier to keep the water from evaporating. Plus, when you pat on face oil after your moisturizer, the oil barrier helps push moisture into the skin. We benefit additionally because oil can penetrate moisturizers, but not vice versa.

In summary

For this reason, oils don’t make great serums-despite any marketing claims or how light the oil claims to be. Because it creates this barrier, your skin can’t easily absorb any products applied over an oil serum. Now, suppose your skin produces enough oil and hyaluronic acid of its own. In that case, oil alone is enough to keep it feeling hydrated. However, if it doesn’t, your skin may feel even dryer than before because an oil alone will not add moisture. It can only trap moisture. In case you’re wondering, the correct sequence to get the most out of your skincare regimen is: cleanser, toner, serum, eye cream, moisturizer, oil and then, sunscreen-preferably physical. For your evening regimen, you can apply retinol right before your moisturizer. For additional information, see this article from Lab Muffin.

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Curated Picks

Face Oils

Sunday Riley: Luna is a clean retinoid sleeping night oil with blue tansy. This oil’s gentle, calming formulation makes it ideal for new retinol users or anyone with sensitive skin. It works throughout the night to deliver visibly youthful, luminous, even-toned skin by morning.

Pai: Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil is unique because it contains concentrated hip fruit oil. This fruit oil has double the regenerative sterols and five times the carotenoids of seed oil. Clinical studies show that rose hip was effective at improving the appearance of scars, stretch marks, sun damage and fine lines. It can be used am or pm.

Kiehl’s: Midnight Recovery Concentrate contains lavender essential oil to calm the senses in preparation for sleep, evening primrose oil to hydrate and maintain elasticity and squalane to replenish skin’s barrier to keep it soft and supple.

Moisturizers

Tata Harper: Crème Riche is an ultra-nourishing, anti-aging peptide cream. It’s made with 100% natural ingredients using botanicals grown on their own farm in Vermont. This intensely moisturizing cream contains antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and vitamin F to give you softer smoother skin. It’s suitable for all skin types and is a favorite of ours.

Youth To The People: Superberry Hydrate + Glow Dream Mask is a work while you sleep treatment. It contains vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, maqui, squalane and prickly pear to combat free radicals, repair, hydrate and brighten the look of your skin. This moisturizer is 100% vegan.

Sunday Riley: ICE is a rich, but lightweight moisturizer that absorbs easily. This dual action ceramide-enriched cream replenishes the skin with lasting hydration and strengthens your skin’s natural moisture barrier. It works well for dry skin types.


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